Nan

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A hidden gem of a province, Nan was once an independent kingdom and is now a refuge for travelers who wish to explore the natural beauty of northern Thailand and its rich cultural heritage in peace and tranquility.

A quiet and tranquil province, Nan is nestled in a verdant valley in northern Thailand along the border with Laos. Because of its relative proximity to Luang Prabang, the historical capital of the Laotian Lan Xang kingdom, the earliest settlers in the area were Lan Xangs Laotians, ethnic Tai who are distantly related to the Tai people who settled in central Thailand. These early settlers established themselves around present-day Pua district, which is rich in rock salt deposits, about 700 years ago. The earliest Nan rulers allied themselves with neighboring principalities to establish the kingdom of Lan Na. The center of power in Nan eventually moved south to the fertile Nan River basin, where the capital of Nan exists to this day.

Nan's history, development, and architecture were greatly influenced by various neighboring kingdoms, in particular Sukhothai, which played important political and religious roles in shaping the development of Nan. Over the centuries however, Nan alternated between being an independent principality under the control of Lan Na, Sukhothai, Burma and Siam in that order. In 1558, the town was conquered and depopulated by the Burmese. By the late 18th century Nan forged an alliance with the new Bangkok centered Rattakosin Kingdom and existed as a semi-autonomous kingdom with a line of monarchs that ruled from 1786 until 1931. Today, Nan is still the home of numerous Thai Lue and other hill tribes who retain many of their fascinating customs and traditions.

The rural province of Nan is an attractive region of northern Thailand where there are high populations of hill tribe communities, including Hmong, N'tin, and Khamu. Much of Nan is devoted to agriculture, particularly rice and fruit cultivation.

Nan features six national parks, including the stunning Doi Phukha National Park, which contains mountains nearly 2,000 m high. The rich natural beauty of Nan makes it an ideal destination for trekking as the remote province sees far fewer visitors than neighboring Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai.

The provincial capital of Nan has a relaxed charm, an interesting history, some impressive temples, and a good museum. There are also a number of quality restaurants and bars along the towns riverfront to plan your adventures into the countryside or relax after sightseeing in the town.

Transport

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As a relatively remote province, Nan is best reached via private car or public bus. However, it is possible to take a train or plane to nearby Phrae or Chiang Rai and then a bus to Nan. Once in Nan, it may be easier to get around with your own car, but there are standard forms of local transport available for visitors: i.e. songtaews, motorbike taxis, samlors, and tuk tuks.

Getting to and from Nan

• By Train:
  

There is no train service directly to Nan, but as the bus alone is such a long ride a combination train, bus journey might be more enjoyable. From Bangkoks Samsen station take a train to Denchai station, the only station in Phrae, the province that borders Nan to the south. Leaving Bangkok around 9 pm, the train arrives at Denchai around 6 or 7 the following morning. From the train station in Denchai a blue songtaew goes to Phrae from where red buses leave fairly regularly for Nan, a 1 ½ hour ride that costs about 40-50 Baht.

• By Car:
  

From Bangkok, take Highway No. 32 to Nakhon Sawan, Highway No. 117 to Phitsanulok, Highway No. 11 to Amphoe Den Chai, and then Highway No. 101 to Nan via Phrae, a total distance of 668 kilometers.

If you have rented a car in Chiang Mai the faster is from Phrae, though the more scenic route goes towards Phayao and then descends into Nan. As roads in the far north are hilly and many are unsealed (off the main roads) it may be preferable to rent a 4x4 if you plan to do any serious exploring on your own. Be aware that only Commercial First Class Insurance provides full coverage on rental cars (as opposed to limited personal or third party only insurance). Most international car rental agencies will offer this insurance (some only for those with a valid international drivers license) while local companies may or may not. You may wish to request a copy of their insurance policy and ensure that it states "For Commercial Use". Regardless, inspect rental vehicles prior to rental and drive with caution, particularly as traffic in Thailand can be quite confusing, especially the habit of Thai motorcycles drivers to drive on the wrong side of the road.

• By Bus:
  

Transport Co. Ltd. operates bus services from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit 2) to Nan every day. Overnight VIP buses are very comfortable with much leg room and the trip takes about 10 hours to complete. There are also regular busses from Chiang Rai to Nan. Call 0 2936 2852-66 or visit www.transport.co.th for more information. Other private companies include Phrae Tour (Tel: 0 2245 2369), Sombat Tour (Tel: 0 2936 2495-6), and Choetchai Tour (Tel: 0 5471 0362 (Nan Office)).

• By Air:
  

Solar Air has three flights a week into and out of Nan from Bangkoks Don Mueang Airport. For schedule or reservations, contact www.solarair.co.th

Getting Around Nan

As in most rural Thai provinces there are typically songtaews that follow established routes around the provincial capital and local busses and songtaews for trips between towns within the province. Songtaews, motorbike taxis, and samlors (three wheeled pedal powered cabs) are usually available for private charter as well.